Southampton art school travel writing course

Spending a weekend in Southampton, Ontario with my friend Cheryl anytime is worth the drive from Toronto – however this weekend had an added bonus as we both participated in a course for aspiring travel writers at the Southampton Art school. Situated on the shores of Lake Huron, Ontario the Art school embodies the wonderful collective spirit of sharing talent that the artistic community often represents. Our group leader – professional travel writer Melody Wren – was a perfect example of this as she generously shared her wealth of experiences over the two mornings we spent in class. An eclectic group of six participants with varied backgrounds, we encouraged each other to find our own voices. Will Cheryl and I move beyond our blogs and try ‘pitching’ story ideas? The ongoing travel is a sure thing but stay tuned for anything further than that.

Aspiring travel writers – Melody Wren on left

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Spring in Bruce County, Ontario

Well it may not be Barcelona but its hard to beat a beautiful spring day in Bruce County as the trilliums wave in the breeze and the wild yellow fritillaries hang beautifully beside their crimson and green mottled leaves.

The woods were full of butterflies of all kinds, apparently blown off course by weather in the south – some had never been seen so early here.

The mauve and pink forget me nots shouldn’t have been there but with the crazy changes to the environment perhaps they should…

The ponds were springing to life, there were tree frogs answering the call of a nearby chain saw and a Great Blue Heron took to the sky…yes we know this is not a heron but she was too fast.

Along the trail there was also some exotic wildlife we could not identify!

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Montserrat and Barceloneta

This was our last day of visiting Barcelona and was the first time we actually set an alarm to make sure we didn’t miss a minute. We headed off  on a tour bus in glorious sunshine to the fabled benedictine monastery of Montserrat. Once again we chose the tour alternative even though many reject this alternative as too touristy…we thought given our limited time we’d do it anyway. We found the winding road up the mountain exhilarating especially sitting on the mountain side seats so we didn’t have to look down the sheer cliffs.

The monastery complex with its cathedral, monks cells, hotel for visitors, cable cars and locally produced food products was really tastefully done. Surrounded by strangely shaped rock formations and walking paths and gardens it was a place you could easily spend a full day exploring. However, here the failings of joining a bus tour show up since we had under two hours to spend in this other-worldly place.

The facade on the church was amazing with a huge scene of Christ and his disciples…since it was Sunday there was mass being heard in the Cathedral and their famous boys choir was participating. You could hear their high clear voices during the hymns. The cathedral was resplendent although one could also say rococo as the following details might show:

And then to get a little closer so we can see the details even better:

Before we left, we both sampled the Monserrat liqueurs and believe that they were quite delicious …although it was a little difficult to discern after the fourth. Along the bridge to the monastery local vendors had set up stalls to sell their local honey’s, cheeses and cakes and Cheryl was very keen on buying some of the cheeses until Carol scared her by reminding her how good the customs dog is at sniffing it out!  It didn’t stop her however from sampling enough along the bridge to make a lunch of it.

We returned to Barcelona with the sun shining and streets filled with families out enjoying the day, so we joined them. As you walk along any street you come across lovely architectural details – not all as grand as Gaudi’s but some as simple as this:

Or a the public mailboxes, many of which look like this:

We walked through the oasis of Parc de la Ciutadella and watched families playing, picnicing, bike riding and paddling boats in the strangely emerald coloured but beautiful lake at its centre.

Then we joined the crowds and headed for the beach neighbourhood of Barceloneta with its narrow streets, cafe’s, beaches and boats. We sat at a patio enjoying the extra hour of sunlight (since the time had changed the night before), people watched  and toasted Carol’s birthday. Walking along the beach we picked up shells, smooth coloured glass, pebbles and admired a Frank Gehry sculpture in the distance. this is the world as it should be – peaceful and full of happy families.

To bring to a close a perfect last day before we headed back to the hotel to pack our bags we visited the chocolate extravaganza – Vioko chocolate shop. We would have taken a photo but our fingers were much too sticky! Well that’s it for Barcelona…Cheryl and Carol hope you enjoyed following along and that you were able to pick up an inkling of just how much we loved this place…Adios Barcelona and hasta la proxima!!

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Barca

We now feel we have become familiar enough with this beautiful city to call it by it’s nickname “Barca”.   When the sun shines on Barca as it did all day today it is nothing less than magnifico!  We started our day with a tour of the Palau de la Musica Catalana.ImageThis magnificent 1908 music hall is indisputably one of Barcelona’s modernist masterpieces.  The balustrade is glass and mosaics and is just a tease of what’s inside….Imageceramics, carved pumice crowned by an enormous yellow, blue and green stained-glass dome that looks like a swollen raindrop ImagePhotographs were prohibited inside the music hall but all guilt went out the window when we found this structure belonged to a wealthy industrialist!  As a result you can share in our experience which was so breathtaking it is indescribable except through our photographs and of course our memories…….ImageWe spent the afternoon wandering the lanes of the Barri Gothic and the Raval district which houses the Museum of Modern Art and the University of Barcelona.  An old working class area that is being “gentrified”and is home to “cup cake shops” and Cheryl’s best find of the trip a vinyl shop where she picked up some “drum & base” for Steven (the 20 something owner who proudly announced his shop had only opened this week was quite surprised Cheryl knew about dub step and drum & base).ImageAfter a short rest back at our Hotel we headed out on the Metro to the Font Magica where wondrous waters dance to a light and pop music show in front of the Palau Nacional.  It was magical (as the name implies) with colors changing from the deepest red to mauve to blue while classical, opera and some pop played to the sprayImageIt is impossible to describe the enormity of the fountain except to have a glance at the people in this photo at the foot of the structure.  We took the Metro (we now give directions to tourists with maps) to the Old Town for dinner at a delightful Thai restaurant.  Another glorious day in Barca.

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Gaudi, Gaudi…more Gaudi

ImageThe sun was shining and all of Barcelona lay at our feet so off we went – on our feet – bright and early. We really have walked miles, happily, and now that we’ve mastered the public transit system in all its forms, nothing feels too far. Walking up the grand avenue ‘Passeig de Gracia’ with all its elegant shops, rich facades and wide sweeping views we were determined to get more Gaudi and visit the Casa Batllo. This is the spectacular house pictured above that he designed for the wealthy industrialist Batllo. The result is a feast for the eyes and an architectural marvel…we loved it!

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Every floor was a marvel, every room a delight and even the staircases were fascinating. Both the colours and the spaces that were whitewashed fed the soul. The textures, coloured glass and exquisite woods, the way the light fell and played – all combined was extraordinary. We couldn’t get enough of it!Image

Walking further along the Passeig we passed the amazing Casa Mila (also called La Pedrera) which seemed conservative compared to some of Gaudi’s other works…and the very tiles that were beneath our feet on the sidewalk were also Guadi’s. Overwhelmed we descended to yet another metro station and took the train to Placa Espanya.

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The space here is imposing and grand and proved a huge contrast to Guadi. We rode the outdoor escalators up to the patio outside the gallery and relaxed to take in the view. The surrounding gardens were lush and fountains sprinkled everywhere.

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After a fast metro ride back to the Gothic neighbourhood, we strolled the streets, took in the Parc de la Ciutadella and decided on a quiet evening.

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Gotta Get Us Some Culture – Barcelona Day 4

Pouring rain again when we awakened on Day 4 of our trip.  It took about 10 seconds for both of us to decide to stay indoors until the rain stopped.  8 hours the day before had worn us down.  By noon the sun was shining and we headed for Montjuic on the subway and funicular.  What a system here in Barcelona;  11 underground lines crisscrossing the entire city with amazing signage, reasonable fares (10 euros for 10 trips) and efficient, clean cars.  When the subway came to our stop we hopped on the funicular which brought us back to ground level and then paid for a “cable car” ride up the mountain to Castell de Montjuic.OK this and the following posts describe our day but because some of our Blog followers were not sure we were even in Barcelona, so absent were we in our photographs, we decided Day 4 was to showcase “Carol & Cheryl in Barcelona.

The view from the Castell Montjuic was amazing – you could view the entire working waterfront, the city in all it’s glory but not without noticing that the Sagrada Familial – Gaudi’s obsession and some say his finest work dwarfs all other buildings in the city.

A short way along the road from the cable car is the Joan Miro museum and since both Carol and I had that on our “to do list” we purchased tickets and ventured in.  Whimsical, multi media, colorful with the guidebook describing Miro as “one of the 20th centuries most celebrated artists” we were not disappointed. Using incredible materials, huge art pieces of cloth, bright fabrics, wood, found objects which formed collages hung from many walls and were at least ’10 by 10′.  There was a wonderful video describing the man who lived for his art until he was 90 years old.

We ended our day in a lovely restaurant in the Gothic quarter and made a pact “that what happens in Barcelona stays in Barcelona” – our lips are sealed!

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Gothic Church and Mozart’s music

To finish the day perfectly we were booked for Mozart’s Requiem at the Santa Caterina de la Mar cathedral. A gothic structure that was stunning in its majesty and perfectly suited for the exquisite concert we were to hear.

We found a charming little tapas bar across from the cathedral and enjoyed some great local red wine, local cheeses and other goodies. When we went back across the plaza to the church it was buzzing with activity and the seats filled up quickly. Now this was at 25euro a ticket and most of the audience seemed to be Spaniards. The setting was exquisite and so was the concert that followed.

The ancient structure filled with the sounds of the orchestra and lovely voices of the choir and soloists  and in spite of the hard church pews the hour and a half passed quickly. We were up yet again way past our regular bed time and walked home the 30 minutes to arrive back at the hotel after midnight. A perfect ending to an interesting but dreary day.

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Day 3 – Rainy in Barcelona

We started the 2nd day of our Hop On Hop Off pass in drizzling rain.  Most customers were vying for the main floor and the comfort of windows and a roof but as hearty Canadians we decided to stay up top:.
We pass through Montjuic Park, La Pedrara, the National Arts Centre and the bustling waterfront all of which we want to explore when the sun is shining but since it wasn’t we got off at the Santa Catarina and La Boqueteria Markets hoping to explore and take photographs
We took hundreds of photographs and found it hard to post just a few on this blog so here are what we consider our best.  Enjoy:

And the vendors had such character:

Beautiful Strawberry Stall:

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What else we did yesterday on Cheryl’s birthday!

Hola again. We had to quit our description of yesterday’s activities before we had finished describing our day. It was midnight and we were about to sue ‘wordpress’ for losing our blog a number of times. We did also visit the magical Park Guel and wandered around in the sparkling sunshine. Set on a hillside with all of Barcelona and the Mediterranean spread out before it this is where Gaudi attempted to create a whole new way of building a community. He didn’t get far before the Sagrada Familia project became his obsession but the strange fairytale houses and paths, benches and bridges he built and the colors he used makes disney look boring! There were lots of young people there – perhaps on school trips – and we had a great time.

We then walked downhill through great neighbourhoods towards the Sagrada Familia. As we’ve walked around this great city we’ve been so impressed with how many parks, playgrounds, dog parks, bike lanes, pedestrian malls there are…how extremely pedestrian friendly it is here. They have a new LRT system that Toronto’s mayor should see!

Guadi’s obsession – the most unchurchlike La Sagrada Familia – described as a testament to his ‘art of the impossible’ vision. A zealot who worked on it for 40 years and since he died in 1926 it has been through civil war, world war and dictatorship and for the foreseeable future will remain under a forest of cranes with hopes of completion by 2026. It’s the finest example of modernism with it’s forest of columns inside, Jesus appearing to ‘hang glide’, the spires topped by sparkling fruit the never ending scenes carved into every space (note this photo of above the door!), the facades appearing in places to melt like a candle, the choir loft that holds 1000 (oh to hear those arias in this space)…we spent over an hour and 1/2 there and could have stayed so much more. There is a little school with wavy walls he had built outside for the workers kids and insisted on girls attending. So many more stories we want to know about this strange architect.

To finish the evening and bring Cheryl’s birthday to a close we went to a local restaurant for   a meal…the tables around us filled up as the clock approached 9pm and the Barcelona vs Granada game was about to start. Stay tuned for our next report on rainy street scenes, bustling markets and the concert we are off to now – Mozart’s Requiem at the Basilica de Santa Maria del Mar.

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Hola Barcelona – Carol and Cheryl


Arrived in Barcelona at 3pm yesterday and even though we were exhausted we couldn’t wait to start exploring. Walking through the streets around our hotel was a treat as we enjoyed the architecture but as we turned the corner and spotted the Arc de Triomf (which only gets one star in guide books) we knew we were in for many treats in the days ahead.

Then we walked to Placa Catalunya , where the pedestrian walk La Rambla starts and joined the throngs of people enjoying the City. Turning down one of the charming narrow lanes we lucked into a small, intimate tapas  bar called Set de Gotic. We consumed fresh salad, local Catalan artisan cheese and red wine and planned the day to follow.

With the sun shining and the weather for the week dodgy we made plans for outdoor exploring. Not being tourist snobs we bought  two day tickets for the ‘hop on -hop off’ bus tour.

It was a great introduction to part of the City and we rode it past spectacular architecture like this colorful roof from the Mercat (Market) St. Catarina which has been there since 1848.

Sitting on the top of the bus – a little chilly but fun – we passed the headquarters for the water corporation. It is an interesting, futuristic building and the audio guide explained that the architect claimed to be inspired by the blue of the Mediterranean and the strange hills of Montserrat. But as feminists we can recognize a phallic symbol when we see one – what do you think?
Well that’s it for tonight – see you tomorrow.
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